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Thursday, July 26, 2012

Clancy Aviation 40 inch Lazy Bee

The nitro version of the famous Lazy Bee when fitted with a pair of GWS floats proves that it can also be crazy bee when the taps are opened on its OS MAX 11 CZ car engine.
I purchased this model many years ago and flew if a few times with its not so reliable, Cox 09 RC engine before putting it aside and going on to other more flyable models. It was stored at my hanger (8X12 foot garden shed) at the lake for a couple of years before giving it a try as a float flyer. It was mounted on a pair of rather small GWS foam and plastic floats that were intended for a much lighter electric foamy Tiger Moth. Using a light weight 3 inch Dan Brown wheel on the tail to serve as a combination, tail float and rudder the Bee proved to be well at home on the water.
The powerful CZ engine gives the Bee sufficient punch to execute some snappy water take-offs and turn the lazy one, into something that can only be described as a crazy thing.
The engine itself was a pleasant surprise: easy starting; extremely reliable throughout its full speed range; and with an idle so sweet, that it was approached by a couple of baby otters while idling at the water's edge. The poor confused little guys must have though it was their mother calling them for dinner (too bad they were not caught on the video).

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

The Gotham Deezil Rebuild Story/Building a fine Runner from the bones

The Gotham Deezil Rebuild Story
Peter Valicek
David Crocker

Millions upon millions of young people were enticed to surrender a significant portion of their allowance by this alluring advertisment that appeared in all the popular magazine of the day, such as Air Trails and Popular Mechanics. These adds appeared for the better part of a ten year period, starting in about 1947. For most of the buyers, this was their only foreseeable opportunity of owing a real model airplane engine. The $2.98 price seemed barely affordable and the 25 to 50 dollar costs of others was totally out of the question. Most of these eager modelers were deeply disappointed and discouraged with their purchases to the point that many turned away from the hobby for ever.

The engines were rarely even capable of running: if the compression happened to be high enough to cause ignition the structural components failed because of the induced loads on them in usually a matter of seconds or even less. The first weak link in the structural chain was the brass connecting rod, which buckled in compression and then some times snapped off in combined bending and tension caused by the binding which resulted from the buckling. In cases where the the compression was marginal and the operator was able to induce ignition by employing clever tricks with fuel mixing or preheating the compression chamber the next major weak link, the crank web failed usually after incredibly short run.  The crank shaft its self was a marvel of engineering ingenuity as it applied to the area of cost cutting. It basically consisted of a mild steel bolt with a sheet metal web swagged and brazed to the end where the bolt head would be normally found. The crank pin was likewise connected to this web. It may well have worked too, had the designer taken the precaution of using a heat treated type of steel for the web.   

This is the story of how two engine enthusiast who got together on YouTube to join forces and create a fine running diesel from the bones of the original Gotham Deezil engine.

For the complete story go to our website 

Running and adjusting the engine

Watch a short video showing the engine's first break-in runs.

The End

Reserve your Gotham Deezil Runner now!
at the Engine Trading Post

Monday, April 23, 2012

Vintage Model Airplane Glow/Ignition Engines eBook

This Series of eBooks can be read on your laptop or tablet computer (e-Reader or iPad) or printed out if one prefers a hard copy.
The book is packed with up to 90 pages of pictures, live links to our videos and information about this eclectic collection of  model airplane engines. 

The e-Books: are in Adobe PDF format  and can be read on any device that is equipped with PDF reading software loaded.

This series of books is all about vintage model airplane engines and includes facts, pictures, and videos of a large selection of classic engines. The books resides on Google Cloud server and there is no risk to the person downloading them because they are first scanned by Google.
Be one of the first to get your own copies of these truly informative and entertaining reference book.

Read this Book Free at our Reading Room

Volume 1
Featured engine topics included in this volume are: 
O&R 23 Deluxe Antique Model Engine
Herkimer OK Cub 14
Cox .010 World’s Smallest Model Engine
Vintage K & B Infant Torpedo .020
K & B ½ A Torpedo (Stallion)
Cox .010 TD Running Against K&B Infant
Russian Junior CO2 Motor
Forster 29 Runs on Full Ignition or Glow
Mk XIII Wen Mac 049
Irvine 20 ABC Diesel and Dykes Ringed Glow
The Brown Junior 60 Ignition Engine
Enya 19 MK V Glow Engine
MICRON 60 (10 CC)
STAB Ignition Engine
Cox .049 Baby Bee
OS .30 Wankel Rotary Engine
Hirtenberg HP VT 21
Webra T4 40

Fox 60 Eagle II 
OS Max H 40 P
ENYA 46 4C
OS 48 4 C Surpass

Only $1.49 at Google Books

Buy the Book Now!  

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Polish SIM 2 Model Diesel Engine

SIM 2 model diesel engine 2cc
Circa 1950

Design History:
Designed and manufactured in Poland in the 1950's

Design Features:
long stroke;
cast iron piston;
steel cylinder liner;
rear induction;
integral fuel tank; and,
plane journal bearing supported crankshaft

displacement 2.0 cc

Sim 2 is a 2cc Polish model engine from the 1950's the design is typical of other long stroke engines of the period

Fitted with a huge propeller seen below ready for a test run

Easy starting with loads of torque even though the compression of this engine is less than desirable
The sound made by this long stroke engine is music to the ear: almost as good as that made by the classic Dyno; the sound on the video clip does not do justice to the real thing. 

Uploaded by valic000 on Mar 17, 2012
Welcome again for people who visite my channel regularly. Today I will show the rare Polish SIM 2 engine. Of a design concept which is very typical for its time. A long stroke side-port engine. He makes a lovely sound when run. I was really amazed about that: almost exactly like my Dyno replica. The engine is in decent condition, but could use a new crankshaft bearing and piston. As he still runs very well, I decided to wait until later to do this maintenance work.
In Poland there are some engine manufacturers, but not a lot. The Jaskolka and the Super Sokol are know too me, but I am sure that there are more. With great engine building nations and neighbors like the Ukraine who have been making great engines for a very long time why don't they just import more of them?
This engine has a lot similar things with my Letmo 2.5 diesel and Super Atom 1.8cc. but that's not uncommon...as I saw many copies of the Mills and Dynos out there.....copy a successful engine is the fastest way to get a proven concept.
I was lucky with the buy this one, as I said before, its not an easy find. Also very hard to find is any info about the Sim engine: if somebody out there knows more about the Sim engines, it would be nice to send it along.....a hint! Thanks
I am of course very happy to have him next too my Czech engines.
Many thanks for watching...see you soon, here on my channel


Friday, March 2, 2012

RCV 58 - Rotary Cylinder Valve Four Stroke Engine

Compact Design - 60 size 4C engine with a super low profile making it an ideal power plant for many scale projects

AT 6 Texan

Engine Overview:-
The RCV - rotary cylinder valve four stroke engine represents a major advance in model engine design.
Although its moving components (piston, crank, cylinder and rotary valve) are totally conventional,
they are arranged in a radically novel configuration to provide the aero modeller with several key benefits,
whilst having similar handling characteristics to other 4-stroke model engines:-

Design Features:-
The engine still uses RCV's unique rotary valve system - which has only one extra moving component to a 2-stroke and so is easy to maintain. Its ultra low profile, means the height of this engine is approximately 18mm less (compared to OS & Magnum) & the highest point is 14 mm further back which makes cowling much easier than with other engines.

ManufactureDie Cast
Engine Type4-stroke - Glow ignition
Displacement0.58 cu inch9.5 cc
Max Power (approx.)0.85 bhp0.64 kw
Weight (exc. silencer)17.6 oz500 g
Length4.01 inch104 mm
Height - centre line axis2.64 inch67 mm
Cowling RadiusR70
Propeller shaft diameter1/4" UNF
Practical RPM range @ prop
2,400 - 12,000 rpm
Example prop sizes (2-blade)10x6, 11x6, 12x6, 13x6
Recommended Fuel10% Nitro / 15% Oil including max 6% Castor

Bench Test:-

In Flight Video:-

Main Components

How it Works
At the top end of the rotating cylinder there is a single port leading to the combustion chamber. This is surrounded by a fixed timing ring with three radially arranged ports; inlet, ignition and exhaust. This simple valve arrangement serves the combustion chamber as the engine cycles through the conventional 4-cycles: induction, compression, power and exhaust. Ignition is achieved through a standard 4-cycle glow plug exposed once only during each complete cycle.The rotating cylinder is effectively combined with the rotary valve in a single component hence - RCV - Rotating Cylinder Valve.

Users Manual 

Saturday, February 11, 2012


Homemade Head Tracker

What it takes to get Started in FPV Piloting:

If you are new to wireless video the first thing is to purchase a wireless video system that will fit your needs from a good FPV vendor like HobbyKing.com, etc.... First you must consider what type of FPV piloting you will be doing, long range (2 miles or more) or short range (less then 1 mile). Long range will require more equipment and a powerful wireless transmitter 500-1000mw (milliwatts) where shorter range requires less power like anywhere from 10mw to 300mw. More watts = further distance. For FPV pilots a 500mw system is the most popular since it can have as much as 2-3 miles of range without drawing lots of power like a 1000mw system. It's recommended to have more wireless video range then RC radio range so if you happen to lose the RC link at least you well be able to see the aircraft's view and OSD info. Helpful if the aircraft should go down making retreiving much easier.

We well assume that you already have an RC Plane, Helicopter, Car, Boat, HAM lic. and are familiar with the radio controlled hobby.
If not we suggest you start with a Radio Controlled Aircraft/Vehicle and become good at controlling it before you ever try FPV piloting. Even though some hobbyist may think it's easier to control a RC aircraft/vehicle through the use of FPV it might not be for you. Take your time getting into this hobby as it can be addicting:).

What you will need to get :

1. Small light weight security type color cameras like the KX-131(5 volts), WD700N (Hi-Res 12v) CCD imager is preferred. Available from site like:(HobbyKing.com)
There are 2 types of camera imaging sensors used, CMOS and CCD. Both have positives and negatives for FPV. Most CMOS will adjust to brightness and contrast for each pixel giving a better picture then CCD, along with using slightly less power. The CMOS camera draw back is it scans each image line by line which can cause waves or ripples in the video if there are vibrations from the aircraft. Also sudden turns or movements can look less natural.
CCD cameras are more popular with FPV pilots because they capture the image frame by frame which allows for better picture when there's vibrations and quick movements. They handle low light conditions better then CMOS and have more pixels for the size (more pixels the better the resolution/clearer picture). The draw back is they consume more power along with blurring when going from dark to bright objects like ground to sky (CCD cameras like the WD600N don't have this issue). 5 volts and 12 volts systems are common. Some prefer 5 volts because of the other electronics they are powering use the same voltage like servos and such so they might share the power source (not recommended). Also most 12volt cameras are really stepped down to 5 volts with a built in regulator.
12 volt cameras are popular because a separate power source like a 3cell 11.1 volt lipo battery easily powers the system along with the video transmitters which now are mostly 12 volts. 12 volt systems are becoming the most popular and are recommended.

2. Wireless video Transmitter and a matching Receiver
There are a few frequency bands to choose from when it comes to purchasing a wireless video system, 900MHz, 1.3ghz, 2.4GHz and the newer 5.8GHz.
Most popular video transmitter as of now is the 900MHz with 500 milliwatts due to the fact it has more range at the same power draw as the other bands. Gets around obstacles better then the other frequencies like trees and buildings. Works with all RC radios and the newer 2.4gHz radios like Spektrum/Futaba/JR without causing interference. The draw back is some countries do not allow 900MHz for public use so 1.3GHz or 5.8GHz is recommended. Milliwatts are important for range so if your going to fly at a far distance then 500mw is going to allow for 1-3 miles/2 km Line-of-Sight, where 10mw will give you much less like 200-300 yards. Some countries do not allow more then 10mw so check your local laws. Wireless video sellers well also have a matching receiver to go along with the frequency you choose.

3. A monitor 7" display or larger. The larger the monitor the better. Or video goggles with a minimum resolution of 640x480 if you plan on using an OSD and want to be able to read the text clearly. Most popular are "Fat Shark" and "Head-Play" brands. If using a monitor you will need to block out the sun light from hitting the screen. Most FPV pilots build an enclosure like a shoe box around the display and then cut a opening for viewing. (note: Fat Sharks are 2.4ghz wireless goggles so there not recommended when using 2.4ghz radios.)

4. A separate battery to run the video equipment inside the aircraft is highly recommended. Using the aircraft's battery can make for poor video and if the battery runs out you will lose your video feed (Video Drop Out) making it impossible to see where the aircraft might land/crash. Try to keep all your wireless video equipment using the same voltage like all 5volts or all 12volts, most companies have both. 12 volt systems make the most sense because a 3s 11.1 volt lipo can power these systems without having to use a voltage regulator like 5 volt systems need. It's not recommended to power 5 volt wireless gear with the radio RX power source even though they have the same voltage. Doing this may cause glitching and/or shorter radio range.

Not all wireless systems are "Plug N Play" so some soldering skills maybe needed depending on what you purchase. Some systems come with bulky RCA/BNC stereo/TV connectors which most serious FPV pilots like to replace with smaller, lighter servo type connectors especially if space and weight are a issue. Most FPV plug n play systems use servo connectors that match what most OSD's and data loggers use.
WDR700 CCD color camera is one of the best.

Basic Plug n Play 900MHz video system from HobbyKing

A good platform for FPV is a well built RC Aircraft/Vehicle keeping in mind that you will be adding more weight for a Video Transmitter (about 2oz), Camera (1.5oz) and a separate power source (battery 2oz) and that's just the basics.

Another thing to consider is the type of aircraft. Electric RC has come a long way in the past few years with the newer Brushless Motors and Lipo batteries that allow for more power and longer flights. They're recommend for FPV over gas (nitro fuel) and don't have the mess associated with fuel.

Trainer aircraft can make a good platform and some modifying of the equipment location may be necessary to keep the center of gravity (CG) correct along with a more powerful motor, larger prop, etc..
Some popular planes for getting started in FPV are the Multiplex (MPX) Easy Star and Skywalker which are made from a durable EPP/EPO foam. There's also the electric Easy Glider, HobbyKings FPV-UAV-168, GWS Slow Stick, Flying Wings, EPP-FPV, etc... Even though you might be a expert flier we suggest starting with something like an Easy Star when first learning FPV piloting.

It's also a good idea to have a plane/heli dedicated just for FPV as changing back and forth will cause you some headaches. Once you have the aircraft chosen you will need to install your wireless camera gear. It's a good idea to keep the wireless video TX 6" to 10" or more away from the planes RX and antenna (your results may vary..always Range Test 1st). If using GPS try to keep the GPS antenna far away as possible from the video TX. When ever possible keep servo wires separated from video wiring. Also use twisted or braided servo wires. This will help keep any interference down to a minimum or none. Some of the best FPV camera placement is usually in the cockpit area for planes and between the skids for heli's.
Some FPV pilots prefer to see part of the aircraft's nose and some don't want anything but the view so final camera placement will be up to you.

Another great way to practice FPV is to use a simulator like Great Planes "Real Flight" G3/G4/G5 RC Flight Sims which allow you to fly from the cockpit view (not able on photo fields sims like the Phoenix). Using the simulator for FPV helicopter practice helps tremendously, not to mention cutting down on repairs from crashes and saving money while learning.
Most popular recommended set-up for basic First Person View, FPV piloting:

1. **Multiplex Easy Star with a brushless motor (2400kv-3000kv, 6x5apc prop) and matching ESC (25-35 amp) Hi-Tec HS-81 servos**

2. Futaba , 9C,10C (10channel), 12Z, 14MZ if you plan on using a Plug n Play head-tracker (Head-Trackers not recommended for beginners)

3.SN-555 / WDR700 (12v) camera (mounted on Pan & Tilt servos if using Head-Tracker)

4. 100mw to 800mw 900MHz wireless audio/video transmitter with whip antenna.

5. Matching wireless receiver with a patch antenna (standard whip is fine for short range flights under 2000')

6. 3 cell (for 12v) 1000mAh or higher Lipo battery for powering wireless video gear

7. Video goggles or monitor with good resolution (640x480 min. if planning on using a OSD.)

Note: If using a 2.4ghz radio like Spektrum/JR/Futaba it will be necessary to use a 900MHz(.9GHz) or 1.2GHz, 1.3 GHz (UK), 5.8 GHz wireless video system and not a 2.4GHz system due to interference with 2.4GHz radios.

Notice: Video Transmitters can get HOT and need cooling like good airflow or a heatsink or fan. Never power a wireless video transmitter for more then a couple of minutes without proper cooling as doing so may ruin the range of the transmitter causing it to be much shorter....but it will still work so always range test if there is a chance it has been overheated.

Your First FPV Piloted Flights

Once you have done a range test you should fly your new FPV plane in normal view until you get the hang of how your new plane flies and get all the trims set to your liking. Record your flight and review it so you'll be familiar with the surroundings and you'll also be aware of any video drops/static before flying FPV. When you feel comfortable to move on to FPV it is recommended that you don't use Head-Tracking (HT) with a pan and tilt set-up for your first few FPV flights and that you use your camera in a fixed position Pointing Straight Ahead (don't point camera down). This will help with visual flight (VFR) in allowing you to put the horizon in the center of the screen during level flight. You will be better able to till whether your climbing, descending or banking a lot easier.
This will also help you become oriented with your aircraft and what to expect while flying FPV.
Another good idea and can't be said enough is "Have a Spotter" to watch your aircraft. Having a spotter is a important FPV tool and if possible have your spotter hooked to your radio with a buddy box/trainer cord. If you become disoriented or lose video feed you'll be able to select your trainer switch allowing the spotter to take over your aircraft until you can regain it. Don't fly over 400' altitude (in US) keeping in mind that your spotter must be able to see your plane and it's orientation. Try to keep level flight and refrain from doing loops, rolls, hammer heads, etc.. until you become a good FPV pilot.
Piloting by FPV takes a lot of concentration and might seem hard at first so if your thumbs (fingers) are shaking that's normal for most newbie's but should go away after a couple flights.

Don't fly to far!!! A lot of first time FPV pilots fly out of radio range on there first flights and it's easy to do so Stay Close by and expect shorter flights since most new FPV pilots also tend to use more power draining the battery faster.

Practice flying slow at a safe altitude (100'+) and Close by (400'-).

The possibilities are limitless

View some fantastic video shots taken via FPV somewhere in the Alps. The reason why specific details are missing from the write up is probably no accident, seeing that the flying appears to be totally illegal judging  from present RC club rules.